Tuning the carburetor, maybe the following questions already exist in your mind of all but users in our own hearts - each the following questions:
- Are you tired of getting cold? Need to increase throttle everyday to get the engine running cold?
- Does someone have the same bike as yours and you're tired of losing to him in drag racing?
- Suddenly, fuel efficiency has been reduced after the service?
- Does your mechanic have messed tuning?
- Machine gives hiccups when you open the throttle?
- Or a bike you just lost that smooth acceleration whenever you want?
- Or your machine is too hot even if you are not too many races?
Perhaps the following will help you in your mean machine tuning for optimal power delivery and the best fuel economy. This guide is aimed at tuning the fuel / air screw to give you the air-fuel mixture is optimal. An optimal mix to get maximum performance from your machine.
These guidelines apply to all single-cylinder bike, 2 stroke or 4 stroke has a carburetor. Tachometer is very useful and should be for a newbie or tuning process will be very slow or painful or imperfect.
Disclaimer: Although anything I write here wont do damage to your machine, eventually you can not blame me for whatever happens. I am here to help if anything goes wrong.
Let's start, Warm good engine. Go get around the city. Speed upto at least half the top speed of both bikes. Drive at least for 10-15 minutes so that the system of the engine warms up properly or you will get a bad track. Do not let the engine idle and start the process. I mean it. Riding a bike.
Now that the engine is hot enough, you are ready to begin the process. You can choose a place far from the city or residential area so you do not disturb, tired sick, sick, elderly or babes (babies) who live in your colony. You probably will drive away from them when you are at a critical point. You can choose a place near her house just to impress your friends! Put the bike on main stand and get your screw driver. That is all you need, along with, your brain's eyes and ears.
Searching the fuel / air screw ... Screws mentioned above are responsible for managing the air-fuel ratio of 'food substances' form for your machine. You can relate to the human body, where protein, carbohydrate, fat, water etc. all that is needed in the appropriate proportions with respect to one another for a good strong body.
There is another screw that sets the engine idle speed. These screws are not related to towing or mileage. It only sets the engine rpm at idle''''dijalankan. 2stroke engines have air screws and 4 stroke engines have a fuel screw. I hope you noticed this VERY well. Air screw located in the carbohydrate away from the machine. [Engine - carburetor - Water screw]
Fuel screw is located in carbohydrates but near the machine. [Engine - Fuel screw - Carburetor]. If the make of your carb Mikuni (Pulsar, Yamaha, Fiero) fuel / air screw may be brass (gold color). If you really screw it open and take it in your hands, you'll see a needle like tip.
Idle screw is closely related to the throttle cable. Idle screw can be rotated by hand. Screw drivers are not essential to it. Finding the screw is very simple. If you still can not find the air / fuel screw, ask your mechanic or I can help.
Ok now what? Apart from the differences above I give between air and fuel screw, there is one more major difference. Fuel turned the screw in (clockwise) provides a mixture of lean and it turns out (anti-clockwise) produces a rich mixture. Air screw turn provide a rich mix and it turns out (anti-clockwise) produces a mixture of lean. Lean means more air, less fuel. Rich means more fuel, less air. The basics of this to end.
Turn the idle screw settings so the rpm reaches about 3000 rpm. Now tune the air / fuel screw to make the leanest mixture possible. Please see above if you have to turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise screw.
When you create a leaner mixture, the engine RPM slowly declining. Go on doing this until you have installed the fuel screw to the point that perhaps the most slender. At the same time, make sure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle screw.
OK the engine is running and the mixture thin. If you look at the sound machine OR if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be stable at this point. Now very slowly beginning to change the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter to enable the 1/8th at a time. You will notice that the RPM increased slowly and steadily. Once again, do it very very slow. Also calculate the number of rounds when you wind the screw out.
You will notice that when you have turned it into about 3-4 full revolution, slowly became a constant engine RPM. It is this point that you have to stop screwing over. This is probably the optimal settings for your machine.
Next, try turning the screw even more and more for the 5-7 revolution and you will see that the engine RPM will slowly decrease. When this happens, you just put in the mixture is too rich on your machine. At this point the engine loses all its fuel efficiency and the mixture is not optimal. Repeat the process about 2-3 times. Calculate revolution every time and get the settings you feel right.
Engine humming perfectly OK, now what? Decrease the idle setting screw until about 1000rpm on the tachometer. When the engine slows down, just turn the throttle. The response should be crisp and quick. It should not give the hiccups! Try to turn off the engine and restart. Machine starts on the kick MUST be single-or herself with out giving throttle. If this happens, the setting is ok. Now go up and you'll see the difference good or bad
You will soon see a change in engine sound and throttle response. Your machine can be more smooth or rough. Another important thing is, Ride and Feel. Always take a ride and get the feel of a bike in any gear, check out the response and engine sound. You will soon come to know once you get the feel of the bike that you want to make the mixture richer or leaner.
It may take several iterations before you fix the arrangement as permanent. Try to calculate the mileage per liter and counting with your setting and the feeling you get.
In doing so it might be a problem that occurs, berkut some solutions to overcome problems that might arise:
- Engine dies while tuning. Try the process all over again. This time set the idle screw higher / faster.
- Engine provides hiccup while driving, especially when in a higher gear. Perhaps the mixture is too thin. Try again.
- Machine heats up. The mixture is too thin or too rich. Try again.
- Every time I race until the engine rpm increases fast but very slowly down to idle. The mixture is not optimal, probably towards the leaner side. Try again.
- Too many low-end torque and engine sound very Beaty / thumpy. You will deal with low mileage for sure, when you drive below 40kmphr. You have set in hand a higher / richer.
- I have my doubts or have other problems. Why do not you put in comments?
Good luck and to be careful...
honda BEAT motorcycle EDITION 2008
